Cheapest flights to Newark

From Southwell, it's eight miles east to Newark, an amiable, low-key river port and market town that was once a major staging point on the Great North Road. Fronting the town as you approach from the west are the gaunt riverside ruins of Newark Castle (daily dawn to dusk; free), all that's left of the mighty medieval fortress that was pounded to pieces during the Civil War. From here, it's just a couple of minutes' walk east to the expansive Market Place , surrounded by a network of narrow and ancient alleys and overlooked by the mostly thirteenth-century church of St Mary Magdalene (Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm), whose massive spire, at 236ft, towers over the town centre. It's a handsome church, its well-proportioned nave cheered by some bright roof paintings and a fine reredos.

There's a regular bus service from Nottingham to Newark via Southwell, and Newark is also on the Nottingham-Lincoln train line. The Newark Castle train station (there is another, so be sure to get off at the right one) is on the west side of the River Trent, a five-minute walk from both the castle and the adjacent tourist office , on Castlegate (daily 9am-5/6pm; tel 01636/655765). The bus station is on Lombard Street, a couple of minutes' walk south from the tourist office along Castlegate. Newark has a small supply of hotels and B&Bs , which the tourist office will book on your behalf at no extra charge, but remember that rooms are well-nigh impossible to find during the Newark International Antiques Fair, Europe's biggest such event, held six times a year. For food , make for the excellent Gannets , 35 Castlegate (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat 9am-5pm & Sun 9am-4pm), an astoundingly good coffee bar serving daytime snacks and meals, or the simply superb Café Bleu , opposite at 14 Castlegate (tel 01636/610141), a brilliant French restaurant serving top-class meals from an inventive menu. It's one of the best restaurants in the county, with an outside terrace and live jazz; the decor - all pastel-painted cheerfulness - is delightful too.

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