Cheapest flights to Buffalo

As I-90 sweeps down into the state's second largest city, Buffalo, downtown looms up in a cluster of Art Deco spires and glass-box skyscrapers - Manhattan in miniature on Lake Erie. The city's early twentieth-century prosperity is reflected in such architecturally significant structures as the towering 1928 City Hall (the tallest in the country, and with a free observation deck on the top floor), the deep red terra-cotta relief of Louis Sullivan's Guaranty Building on Church Street, as well as major buildings by H.H. Richardson, Eliel Saarinen and Frank Lloyd Wright. However, the dereliction of the immediate environs suggests that the Rust Belt of rotting industrial towns may now have reached Buffalo. The city has only distant memories of the boom years, when the massive grain elevators along the Erie waterfront were busy 24 hours a day

The Lake Erie shoreline west of Buffalo is lined by numerous beaches where windsurfers skim across the water and do flips in the waves, while the Miss Buffalo boat tours (tel 716/856-6696; $12 and up), which leave from 79 Marine Drive next to the Naval and Servicemen's Park, provide a good view of the city skyline. To the south, in the town of Orchard Park, the Burgwardt Bicycle Museum (Mon-Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1.30-5pm; $4.50; tel 716/662-3853) holds over two hundred antique bikes and engaging displays of cycling memorabilia.

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